Program

Research Programs: Summer Stipends

Period of Performance

6/1/2012 - 7/31/2012

Funding Totals

$6,000.00 (approved)
$6,000.00 (awarded)


The Spanish Style: The Politics of Extreme Fashion in an Age of Empire, 1492-1700

FAIN: FT-59978-12

Amanda Jaye Wunder
CUNY Research Foundation, Lehman College (Bronx, NY 10468-1527)

Spanish fashion changed rapidly and radically with the ascent of the Spanish empire. The Spanish Style explores the impact of the imperial experience on Spanish society and culture through the development of a new national style of dress and the debates that it inspired between 1492 and 1700. This book offers a new narrative of the impact of the New World on the Old by examining materials textiles and clothing that were of utmost importance in the early modern world, although they have been marginalized in the historiography. Through visual, archival, and literary sources, this project explores the multiple perspectives of the men and women who made, wore, and debated the controversial extreme fashions that symbolized Spain at home and throughout the Spanish empire.





Associated Products

Spanish Fashion in the Age of Velázquez: A Tailor at the Court of Philip IV (Book)
Title: Spanish Fashion in the Age of Velázquez: A Tailor at the Court of Philip IV
Author: Amanda Wunder
Abstract: Spanish Fashion in the Age of Velázquez is the first archival study of dress at the court of Philip IV, as told through the life and work of royal tailor Mateo Aguado. Tailor to the queens of Spain from 1630 to 1672, Aguado designed the striking dresses that gave the Spanish court its distinctive look in the Baroque era. The most influential dress designer in the seventeenth-century Spanish world, Aguado was responsible for creating the iconic dresses that appear in some of Diego Velázquez’s most famous court portraits. Based on new research, this book brings to life the world of Aguado and his colleagues at court. The long-lost garments and accessories that the court artisans made for their royal employers are reconstructed here for the first time. Aguado’s creations played a crucial role in domestic and international politics by shaping the royal image, and his dresses took center-stage in major political events during Philip IV’s reign. Richly illustrated with well-known masterpieces along with surviving textiles and garments, the book explores how Aguado’s dress designs shaped a new vision of Spanish style, and Spanishness, that defined Golden-Age Spain.
Year: 2024
Primary URL: https://search.worldcat.org/en/title/1417269296
Primary URL Description: Worldcat
Publisher: Yale University Press
Type: Single author monograph
ISBN: 0300246544
Copy sent to NEH?: No

La moda española en la época de Velázquez. Un sastre en la corte de Felipe IV (Book)
Title: La moda española en la época de Velázquez. Un sastre en la corte de Felipe IV
Author: Amanda Wunder
Abstract: La moda española en la época de Velázquez reconstruye la vida y obra de Mateo Aguado, el hasta la fecha desconocido sastre que creó los llamativos vestidos que confirieron a la corte española su aspecto característico durante el reinado de Felipe IV. Como sastre de cámara de la reina desde 1630 hasta su muerte en 1672, Aguado diseñó las icónicas prendas inmortalizadas en los retratos pintados por Diego Velázquez de las reinas Isabel de Borbón y Mariana de Austria, y de las infantas María Teresa y Margarita. Aguado y sus compañeros artesanos de la corte ocupaban una posición única en la sociedad madrileña, a caballo entre la esfera restrictiva y ceremoniosa de la corte y las bulliciosas calles comerciales de la ciudad. Basado en una meticulosa investigación en el Archivo General de Palacio de Madrid, este libro, profusamente ilustrado, da vida al mundo de los artesanos de la corte y detalla por primera vez las prendas y accesorios que confeccionaron para sus patronos reales. Las creaciones de Aguado desempeñaron un papel crucial en los principales acontecimientos políticos del reinado de Felipe IV en tiempos de guerra y de paz, en la diplomacia internacional y en los matrimonios, nacimientos y muertes de la realeza. Los trajes que Mateo Aguado diseñó para la Casa Real dieron forma a una nueva visión del estilo español —y de la españolidad— que sigue siendo reconocible al instante y continúa inspirando a diseñadores de moda y artistas en la actualidad.
Year: 2023
Primary URL: https://edicioneselviso.com/es/inicio/226-la-moda-espanola-en-la-epoca-de-velazquez-un-sastre-en-la-corte-de-felipe-iv.html
Primary URL Description: Ediciones El Viso
Publisher: Ediciones El Viso
Type: Single author monograph
ISBN: 9788412679564
Translator: María de la O Merino Aguilera
Copy sent to NEH?: No