Terroir and Modern Food Politics in France

FAIN: HR-50226-05

Kolleen M. Guy
University of Texas, San Antonio (San Antonio, TX 78249-1644)

Terroir, with its celebration of the local and regional, has been embraced by those interested in combating globalization and "McDonaldization." This project explores the social and cultural history of terroir by examining three foods that shaped its meaning in the twentieth century: wine (Burgundy), cheese (Roquefort and Brie), and mustard (Dijon). Rural producers and the French government promoted and protected these products, capitalizing on the notion that a distinctive blend of French soil and Gallic "soul" infused them with taste. By underscoring the importance of the uniquely French origins of terroir, this study shows how local agricultural communities and economic nationalism have shaped international food politics.